On Saturday I rode the bus down to Schloss Nymphenburg, which only took about 15 minutes of driving, but 30 minutes because of switching and waiting for buses. Still, it was an easy trip, and then I was here:
It’s too bad the facade of the central building is under renovation.
Here is the Swan King himself, “Mad” Ludwig II. Nymphenburg was first built as a summer residence in the 1600s, and Ludwig II was born here in 1845. He’s the one who built all the anachronistic fanstasy castles here in Bavaria, like Neuschwanstein. It was his grandfathers and so on who built Nymphenburg, in Italian and French Baroque styles, and I know nothing about secular Baroque architecture, so I can’t really pick anything out to talk about it.
which was, of course, my first stop. I got a deck of cards with Bavarian castles on them, and a few postcards, but overall I was just surprised by how classy the gift shop was, and how little merchandise they actually had. We were gift shop connoisseurs when we would go on vacations in the Western US, willing to venture into any tourist trap, and there’s something I just love about tacky tourist knick-knacks. Even just the way the gift shops smell… But I have to say, this place was downright unAmerican. Look at all the empty space. Look at how they are selling things people might actually want.
Again, as a relic of my touristing childhood, I call every place that has some information an Interpretive Center. In this little Interpretive Center, everything is in German. This makes it so you are forced to buy the different guide-books, in various languages.
Okay, back to my story. I didn’t pay for the ticket to go inside the palace or any of the pavilions, though I probably will another time. I just walked around the park a bit.
All this neoclassical architecture and sculpture is supposed to make you think that the Wittelsbachs are just like the Romans emperors.
So this is interesting – the “Magdalenenklaus.” It’s a fake ruin of a fake hermitage.
This is the ceiling,
But my left foot was hurting pretty badly (see: previous post) and I had to stop several times to rest it. I’d already been walking or standing for about an hour and a half, and I was afraid it might cramp up and make it so I couldn’t even walk back to the bus stop. So I made my way back out of the park grounds…
Half a block from the bus stop I saw some twin spires with crosses on them… I think in the US and maybe in England, a single church spire is the more common design, but here, two spires seems as common as the more recognizable onion dome. (And Munich’s Frauenkirche has twin onion domes.) I think the two towers have their archaeological origin in the “westwork” of Carolingian and Romanesque churches . That vertical facade with its multiple floors was sometimes used in German Gothic churches, but even when it faded away, the two towers remained.
ANYway. This is Christkönig Kirche, built in 1930. The exterior is Baroque-influenced…
As these things go, I liked it okay. It has a light, clean look without seeming overly sterile.
The tabernacle is modern, too, and I’m sure the crucifix, although I didn’t look closely.
Then I went back home!